About

La Palma – Isla Verde – Isla Bonita

Since about 20 years I’m coming to La Palma, this little magical spanish island far out in the Atlantic Ocean. Year after year I’m getting pulled to this island again like a magnet.
Being a guest once, I got addicted to the special flair this island has to offer. It’s a magical power that grabbed my heart and my soul, like I came to Disney World’s Magic Kingdom the first time.
It’s a magic, mixed of an overwhelming, pure nature, incredible panoramic views from just about everywhere, the permanent presence of the Atlantic Ocean, this closeness to the universe, which seems touchable. The clean, salty air, different smells from uncountable sorts of flowers, bushes, herbs and exotic plants all over the island.

La Palma – Isla Verde, the true green island of the seven Canary Islands, which are build on volcanoes. There is usually not much growing on lava. Even lava is loaded of minerals, root’s can hardly find there way into the hard stone.
La Palma has incredible woods with pines they survived even the hot lave stream centuries ago. Blooming bushes, wild flowers, wild herbs, blooming trees just everywhere. It makes an exciting new experience, being in La Palma’s very natural surroundings.
But the true magic is based on the very friendly, giving, and naturally smiling “Palmero’s”, the island people. Living here since history, nobody exactly knows sine when, they shaped their island to an incredible beauty, we participate from every day. This was never an easy task, because there has nothing been than lava and plants in the very beginning. Those people had a true though life throughout the centuries, to get a living from the island.
Nevertheless, hard work, spring- and summer- season all year round, the always present ocean, the constant fresh breeze mostly from north-east winds, the moist and fruitful soil where fruits and vegetable growing year round, black lava fields with red- and white wines which having the deep taste of sun and fruity, hot lava.
Those Palmero’s have been in Cuba and Venezuela in history and for ages, to work there, to build families here and there and of course, smoking cigars and having always a great wine at the “fiestas” celebrated uncountable times over the year and all over the island. Those people, are influenced only by hard work, nature, beauty and a salty ocean, they are one of a kind and not to find elsewhere in the world.
I believe God made La Palma, to enjoy life in the most beautiful and natural way with everything you can imagine to celebrate every single day, having friends and family around, always having the ocean close and a good meal and a terrific wine. after that take your boots and hike into the volcano just to get excited. Enjoy.

The typical food of La Palma

The admirers of fresh and healthy food have found their paradise on the Canary Islands and La Palma especially. Not only, that every household has growing something in the backyard, there are a lot of offers on the road, just sold out of a van. Fruits all over the island, harvested at least twice a year, vegetables same thing. Herbs are always needed and always available. Outdoor fresh markets at the weekends are typical and in addition to the market halls Los Llanos and St. Cruz, but they are closed on Sundays.

The most exciting booth for specialties in the market hall of Los Llanos

“Palmeros” like to shop fresh food every day and often just around the corner, in the small grocery shop, which is family owned. Everybody knows everybody and shopping here is socializing just likeat the water fountain in earlier times. Buying a lunch needs 3 minutes, but shopping was an hour, because of the intense change of latest news with the shop owner and neighbors. Supermarkets are also available but not the favorite place to shop for islanders. Some “Super Mercados” already close their doors for ever.

"La Rosa's" little shop for the everyday needs, on the road to Las Manchas

Little shops, often with no more space than a family room, is just the right environment for getting everything you’ll need for the next meal. Like the shop from “La Rosa” on the road to Las Manchas. You get the best jamon serano here, absolutely thin sliced, green olives, tomatoes, bread still warm, vino and aqua, that is all you need. Just look out for a shady place with an ocean view and you will enjoy one of your best lunches ever. Did you bring bananas or oranges, a papaya with fresh lime juice? That’s your desert today and after lunch? Right… Siesta! Nothing works between 1pm to 4 pm take your time and enjoy an out nap in the cool atlantic breeze.

Rosa knows your desire regarding Jamon Serano - very thin sliced!

There comes a freshly picked garden fresh salad on the table, where I live, that’s just normal. Also the veggies self grown, just sliced and into a pot, some herbs and done is great meal together with seafood or steaks, just brought from the fresh market to complete a delicious dinner. Even the “papas arugadas” potatoes boiled in their skin in saltwater, are from the backyard and have a great taste together with “mojo verde”.

Typical "Palmero" selection of a harvest from the backyard.

Restaurants in general are having the typical island kitchen to their offer, but are specialized sometimes for seafood or grill (parilla). Because of springtime conditions all year round, there is nothing you have to miss. Fruits and veggies in just an overwhelming amount of sorts. Have you ever eaten black tomatoes? You are probably impressed of the bold tomato taste.

Black tomatoes with an incredible taste. Call them Lava-Tomatoes

Hamburgers, hot dogs? Yes also, but not very often and just for tourists, in beach zones. Inhabitants are eating a bocadillo for lunch, that’s their fast food. It’s a short baguette with chicken or, steak, or tuna, or a tortilla espaniolla on it, always veggies and a spicy cream or ayoli on it. The best bocadillo actually, you’ll get at the coffee shop of Los Llanos’s fresh market but not after 1:30pm.

A garden fresh salad is always part of every meal, here with figs and beet on greens.

Smoked goat cheese, you have to try those cheese and do not forget olives and a white wine for this meal. I do like the smoked cheese actually with a red spicy mojo on it and together with jamon serano, the best ham ever. Bodegon Tamanca is famous for their jamon serano. They offer a special jamon serano from black pigs.

Smoked goat cheese a La Palma specialty.

Another specialty is "Ensalada de Pulpo" which is octopus salad and very delicious.

There are lots of privately "Bodegas" on the island. be lucky and get invited for a try.

The red fish with huge eyes, that's my absolute favorite and Alfonsinio called

Santa Cruz de La Palma – The Capital

If you come to St. Cruz, looking to park your car in the city, it should be a Sunday. All other days of the week you need to park outside the city, right between the Atlantic Ocean and Avenida de la Maritima, because the city is incredibly filled up with business and traffic, and crowed in the small alleys.

Santa Cruz de La Palma from a mountain near harbor

But – getting off the car, crossing Avenida de la Maritima, your are one step away from the historic heart of St. Cruz and the history of Spain anyway. Go two more blocks inside and you will hit Cale de O’Daly where you easily find Plaza Espana and the old historical core of the capital.

Plaza Espana embodies all the proud and glory and wealth of the former world power, like it would be still alive today and is the most exquisite jewel of the city. Nevertheless of modest dimensions, depending on lava shaped landscape, Plaza Espana is the geographical, social and religious center.

Behind a line of impressive royal palms, the church of salvation, Iglesia del Salvador, takes the entire north front of the plaza, which was rebuild after Le Clerc’s pirates robed and burned down the city in 1553. Iglesia del Salvador is the most important religious building on the Canary Archipelago and filled with art treasures and impressive handicrafts of the last five centuries. Particularly the hand carved high altar, entirely covered with gold leave, is just one piece of the rich and precious decorated church. The heavy and massive, quadrangular tower, accommodate the vestry, was build in 1567 and is known as the oldest original part of the Iglesia del Salvador.

Iglesia del Salvador at Plaza Espana in the heart of St. Cruz

Coming out of the church, down the stairs to the right, under a green roof, you see the public fountain from 16^th century, which was in earlier times the social center of the city and is not needed anymore, since water is in every household now. Diagonally opposite the church, rich decorated houses of inhabitants were build. The house with the number 1, known as Casa Cabana or Casa Valcarcel, is counted to be the most beautiful and magnificent building of St. Cruz.

Plaza Espana No.1 - the most beautiful citizen house in town

Across Cale de O’Daly the city hall, finished in 1563 after 4 years of building and decorated with coat of arms of the Habsburger, of the city of Santa Cruz and a medallion of King Phillip II. Stepping up the handicraft, wooden stairway, colossal wall paintings of expressionist Mariano de Cossio show episodes of native farmers, fishermen and winegrowers of La Palma.

City hall of St. Cruz and La Palma at Cale de O'Daly

Strolling on Cale de O’Daly, away from Plaza Espana to the north, you’ll pass more magnificent citizen houses. The one to the right, just before Avenida del Puente has the oldest and most beautiful pharmacy on the island. Stucco ceilings, handmade renaissance furniture and mosaic sales counter are the highlights you want to see here.

Inside the most beautiful and magnificent old pharmacy of St. Cruz

Shops, bars and restaurants vary in the beautiful alleys of the historic city on your way to Plaza Alameda. Here is, where you could have a coffee at an outside table, rest a moment and enjoy the beauty around of the city. Here is also where a replica of Columbus ship Santa Maria is located and waiting for visitors, even Columbus never set a foot on La Palma.

View through Cale de O'Daly to the massive tower of Iglesia del Salvador

Now walking back south on Avenida de la Maritima, watching the waves hitting the seawall, the big crabs on the rocks and the beautiful old houses on the other side of the Avenida, we turn right into Avenida del Puente. Crossing Cale de O’Daly, you’ll come to the little Plaza del Teatro Chico, where on Fridays and Saturdays is held the most colorful flower market. One house further uphill, there is the Plaza de Mercado, the market hall of the city. In the main hall you’ll find the widest selection on islands vegetables and fruits, while in the side halls all kinds of fresh meat, seafood, cheese and bakery products are offered.

Walking the alley to Plaza Alameda

Leaving the market hall through the main entrance, moving down to Cale de Alvarez de Abreu, you stroll along another alley of historic buildings, where small businesses have taken place in today. Just watching the front windows or shopping for your loved ones, is the thing to do here, before you turn left to Avenida de la Maritima and the parking area on the ocean, where your little city tour ends.

Avenida de la Maritima

Avenida de la Maritima

High Altar of Iglesia del Salvador

The beautiful alleys of historical Santa Cruz de La Palma

After Le Clerc no pirate got anything anymore, because of massive city walls

Citizen houses of Avenida de la Maritima

Quite a place for dinner that beautiful restaurant on Avenida de la Maritima

Another house on Avenida de la Maritima

Santa Cruz with outgoing ferry to Tenerife

Hiking the volcano route - La Palma

La Palma - Isla Verde – the greenest island of the Canary Archipelago is offering an incredible variety on scenic landscape, which is hard to find anywhere else in the world. This little island far out inthe Atlantic Ocean is inviting you into wide valleys, pine- and laurel forests, banana plantations, wild canyons and volcanic craters, cascades and waterfalls. Even the most beautiful deep black beaches can not match the temptations of the colorful and varied nature, brings permanently new sceneries and panoramic views between hot glowing lava beaches, luxurious laurel primeval forests and cloud covered volcano ridges. And always omnipresent the deep blue Atlantic.

La Palma – the ultimate paradise for hiking nature lovers, who looks for highlights, keeping aloof of loud beach tourism and cheap sightseeing. From adventures tours through the wildest Barrancos at the north, to romantic sunset tours on the 2000 meter mountain tops, to the absolute thrilling volcano route, there is still one outstanding top event remaining. It’s the route into the world biggest, protected from 1000 meter lava rock walls, erosion crater of the Caldera de Taburiente.

Before the archipelago was conquered, the island was criss-crossed by a net of ancient (camino reales) kings routes all over. Those old trails, sometimes cobble stoned paths, crossing mountain ranges and ravines, have been the streets of the island, build by original inhabitants. With the automobile, kings routes fell into oblivion and vegetation took back some of their lost terrain. Nevertheless a big amount of these routes are still present and useable for hikers to get close to those hidden and secluded locations, which can not be reached by mechanical transportation, to enjoy the purest, most beautiful wonders of the island.

Most beautiful routes are at the Ermita Pino de la Virgen up to the Cumbre and between Tijarafe and Punta Gorda.

You can hike the entire island absolutely on your own, but there are also guided tours, where you walk in company and enjoy even more the tour, being always on the right path, getting the sagas, the history and the stories about anyway. Never forget a pocket camera, always get into the right and already used hiking shoes, be prepared for quick weather changes and have a bottle of water and an energy bar in your backpack.

Any questions, or information is needed? Do not hesitate to put yours into the comment box.

The Beaches

The number one beach still is Puerto Naos, with the longest and widest beach on the island, starting at Hotel Sol La Palma and continues along half a mile promenade, where shops offering all kind of beach gear and restaurants inviting into shady areas for drinks and snaks. On weekends it can be very crowded here and parking your car is pretty much impossible if you are late and coming after noon. Locals love their beach too and will enjoy all the way just like you do. If you have children, you rather want to stay on the north side, where smooth lava sand makes the beach more enjoyable and palm trees give some shade. The south side of the “Naos-Beach” is covered with rocks and stones.

Puerto Naos - The biggest beach on the island

One beach further south, heading to Charco Verde, you will find an insider beach, where parking is not necessarily better, because this beach is the only official “cloth optional”. Do not think this beach has less visitors. On sunny days just the opposite is true, especially guests from Germany and the Netherlands like to get a seamless tan. That is the main reason, coming to Playa de Las Monjas. Besides, the little black lava bay is counted, one of the most beautiful of the island. Taking a bath in the ocean is much more enjoyable, if waves are calm or not even there.

Right between the bananas - Playa de Las Monjas - beautiful little bay, cloth optional

The lava steps or the rocks below is your best choice to stay here with rough waves

Same road, same direction, two other beaches are still showing up. First one is Charco Verde and a little further down the road, El Remo.

The beach of Charco Verde framed from banana plantations, is just the beach for kids. When in Puerto Naos and Playa de Las Monjas waves are transforming into breakers, Charco Verde still remains calm. The fine and smooth sandy beach is just a perfect one for kids, while El Remo needs at least teens, because of the rocky coast. El Remo has a natural build “Ocean-Pool” where water is calm inside and a great outdoor restaurant just at the same spot. Parents could sit in the shade with a cool drink, a vino tinto and lunch or dinner. El Remo is also the dead end of the road.

Charco Verde - The beach for kids - fine smooth sandy beach with mostly calm ocean

To get to the beaches at south of the island, you need to climb up all the way via Puerto Naos, Todoque and Las Manchas, to San Nicolas, where you hit the main road (LP-1) to Los Canarios (earlier Fuencaliente) and hopefully with a car.

Playa de La Zamorra, Playa de Punta Larga, Playa Nueva and Playa del Faro, which is the absolute south beaches of La Palma and right at the lighthouse with the volcanoes Teneguia and San Antonio in the background and an incredible beautiful and unique scenery. Take a look to the Salinas, where the salt is coming from your eating in your meals everyday, they are close by.

El Remo - natural pool for teens and older with shady restaurants right beneath

Those are pretty much the beaches on the west side of the island, just the beach of Puerto de Tazacorte needed strongly to be recommended too, because this beach is build up very nicely over the last years and is rising in peoples favor now. The old “banana-dock” breaks the waves from the ocean side, so the water is save and calm inside the little bay. Showers are installed now and a beautiful promenade with a lot of benches, where everybody is invited, does not want to sit in the sand. Drinks and snakes are easily taken at promenades café’s and restaurants, where you can sit outside, while your towels remain on the beach.

The beach of Puerto de Tazacorte - rising in peoples favor - great beach for kids

The beaches at the eastside La Palma’s from north to south start with the Piscinas de La Fajana, which are actually pools just below Barlovento, chiseled into lava stone and naturally filled by the ocean and the main attraction in summer for locals around. Weather conditions must be good for a visit to the pools. A rough sea makes bathing impossible. On the plateau offshore the steep coast, camping is possible and permitted.

The beach of Puerto Espindola is not to mention and besides a lot of concrete, the old little harbor was build from, for shipping bananas in earlier times, there is just the restaurant Mason del Mar, which actually offers good meals, to mention.

Also don’t expect too much of a beach in Charco Azul. Like the Piscinas de La Fajana, Charco Azul has a natural ocean pool, built into the lava rocks, but will be save inside, while the breakers outside hitting the rocky coast.

Playa de Nogales, one of the very beautiful sandy beaches of the island, because of it’s wild, untouched nature. Swimmers need to be very careful, heavy breakers are dangerous sometimes and tragic accidents have already taken place here. Even you are not here to take a bath in the ocean, the beach is worth to be visited. The climb down leads through a tagged coastal cliff and ends 200 meters below the steep cliff on a fine sandy beach. Sun tanning is also just for early birds, because the sun disappears already about noon behind the cliff.

The beaches of Los Cancajos, are right in the islands center of tourism. In the 80^th, when islands government decided to bet the bucks on tourism, a hotel and apartment complex was quickly build up and concrete blocks, dropped into the ocean, to calm the sea down. A sandy beach was developed and got very popular for the all-inclusive-tourism but not only for them. On sunny weekends inhabitants from the capital Santa Cruz are coming to near Los Cancajos and fill up the beaches with a massive crowd.

Paragliding at it's best - La Palma

Paragliding enthusiasts are considering La Palma one of the best flying areas of the world. Unique conditions delivered from the presence of volcanoes, made from trade winds, breezing gently and constantly from the northeast and spring-like temperatures, predominant the whole year round, producing ideal meteorological facts for both, thermal and dynamic flights.

On top of that, there is the magnificent scenery of landscape, which even surprises well traveled globetrotters and makes every flight a very enjoyable event. Gliding along volcanoes and over subtropical forests, circling over the ocean and going down at the beachside or going back into thermal conditions and rise again, makes paragliding a complete and exciting adventure and a challenge for every pilot.

Paragliding over the Atlantic Ocean

Since about 20 years the start base is just above the beach from Puerto Naos on La Palmas west side, where gliders starting from a plateau, 250 meters above sea level. Paragliding instructor Roger Frey from the paragliding school Puerto Naos, explained the unique conditions so: ”The usual facts look like that, the peak line of the volcanoes along mid island is falling from north to south and from Roque de los Muchachos (2406m) over Pico de la Nieve (2239m) to Reventon (1435m) to Pico de Birigoyo (1774m) to Crater de Hoyo Negro (1871m) to Deseada II (1875m) to the Volcan of San Antonio (657m) in the south of La Palma, before it slowly falls down to zero at the lighthouse of Fuencaliente.”

“Now”, Roger Frey explains ahead: “looking at the northeast trade winds, hitting the east side of La Palma, we would actually start leeward. But now it comes! Trade winds are splitting around the volcanoes and passing the island north and south, while developing two turbulences in leeward, which are hitting the back of the volcanoes just about in the middle of the islands west side, as windward, right where our starting base is. This phenomenal incident enables the pilots not only to have great starts but are also able, to rise with the turbulences unbelievably towards clouds, at slower trade winds.”

We figured out those condition years ago, Roger said, and we told all our paragliding friends. In the meantime exactly on our spot a couple of competitions have taken place and two years ago, they had an inquiry, that we host the 2008 world cup for paragliding at the Puerto Naos base, but unfortunately, sponsors could not be found to realize the world cup.

"desafio" Paragliders competition at La Palma 2008

It’s worldwide recognized now, what we have here, Roger said. We enjoy every single flight ourselves, provide the paragliding school for pilot certification, doing tandem flights and para-guide-services for pilots are coming for gliding here a week or two, but don’t know about the conditions. It’s very important to have that knowledge and we offering our help where we can.

There is a little office right on the promenade of Playa Morena in Puerto Naos, where also the landing area is and enough space to fold the paraglider to get up the hill, in Roger’s Jeep again.

If you have any question about paragliding La Palma, Rogers will be happy to answer as quick as possible. Just put your question into the comments-box.

....Office at Playa Morena, Puerto Naos......... The flight instructors Javier & Roger.....

After the "take off" from Puerto Naos home base at 250 mtr.....

... pilots get lifted by the "thermal elevator" and can reach 2000 mtr at best conditions...

.. where they want to stay forever.

Puerto de Tazacorte

If you are driving down from *Los Llanos, to *Puerto de Tazacorte, you will have one scenic ride on serpentines through the banana plantations with beautiful panoramic views all the way. Being on ocean-level, passing the harbors gate, a brand new marina is showing up just build and not even finished yet.

Barranco on the road down to Puerto de Tazacorte

For years I was hoping this will happening one day and now it’s reality. A marina, bigger and more beautiful than I ever would have imagined. While construction is still going on, the marina is already packed with vessels. Boat rides are already starting and can be booked one different boats for day- excursions include whale watching. Big game fishing crews are heading for blue and white Marlin, while fishing from the lava rocks is more common. If you want to share the rocks with the local fisher men, you are most welcome and invited. I have not seen rental boats for now, but it is probably to early to make a final statement here.

The harbor lies save between lave rocks on the island side and a huge concrete wall to the ocean side, which protects the marina and the harbor from giant waves, are usual in the winter month, when the islands season is on and all visitors are coming to the Puerto, to watch those huge waves, smashing themselves against the concrete wall with monstrous splashes and fountains. This is quite a show you don’t wanna miss.

Having had a great time and getting hungry, you want to stay in Puerto de Tazacorte. A couple of restaurants, serving local specialties and seafood, are right at the end of the promenade where the new beach area is. You sit outside and enjoy your meal in a nice, cool breeze from the ocean. *Alfonsinio is my absolute favorite fish for dinner, which comes grilled with lots of garlic and chopped parsley served with *papas arugadas and *green and red mojo, a sauce is made from fresh herbs and a must to every meal.

This is just, how a beautiful day should end. Later on you make a quick stop at the place around the corner, get another drink or an ice cream or a *café cortado and if you are lucky, a musician will get you on your legs, with hot salsa rhythms. Believe me, you will sleep just great.

Bananas everywhere, it's the main income of La Palma's economy

No comment necessary here!

New Marina, still in progress to make the harbor saver and bigger....

......uncountable tons of concrete are already taken.....

..... tons of concrete are still coming up, together with......

..... huge blocks to break the very heavy waves in wintertime, and ......

.... loads of steel to support the huge and thick concrete wall to take gigantic waves.

Promenade with restaurants – Puerto de Tazacorte

Old banana dock – Puerto de Tazacorte

Just a great place to stay for dinner – Puerto de Tazacorte

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